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Fixing it with Waterwell
Our best selling range, and the only one that publishes dose rates — so these are real numbers, not "as directed".
Green or mustard algaeNot enough chlorine, wrong pH, dirty filter media — usually all three.
- Test and correct pH first
- Backwash and rinse the filter
- Shock as directed
- Algaecide, then brush the walls
Sudden Shock 1 sachet / 50 000 L · Green Out 250 ml / 10 000 L
Black algaePoor circulation and filtration. It roots into the plaster under a waxy cap.
- Correct pH
- Brush hard — the algaecide cannot get through the cap otherwise
- Black-algae treatment as directed
- Shock
- Fix the circulation or it returns
Black Out 250 ml / 10 000 L
Green that will not respond to anythingStabiliser has climbed so high the chlorine cannot keep up. Not "chlorine lock" — see below.
- Test the stabiliser. Without that number nobody can tell you your real chlorine target
- Free chlorine needs to be 7,5–10% of the stabiliser reading — at 100 ppm stabiliser that is 7,5–10 ppm
- That is more than anyone should swim in, so drain and refill part of the pool to bring stabiliser down
- Then hold the normal 1–3 ppm
- Unstabilised chlorine for a few months so it does not climb straight back
458 is the unstabilised option for the 4-month step
"Chlorine lock" is a myth — Waterwell, our main chemical supplier, published this and they are right. Chlorine bound to stabiliser releases again in about half a second; nothing is locked. It simply works slower as stabiliser rises, so you need more of it. Some brands' own guides still use the old term. We would rather tell you what actually happens.
Brown, rust or inky stainsIron, copper or manganese from borehole or municipal water. Sharp pH swings drop them onto the plaster.
- Metal remover — enough on its own for most stains
- Stain remover on what is left
- No shocking for 5 days after
- Set in hard? That is an acid wash — phone us, do not attempt it
Metal Out 250 ml / 10 000 L per 1 ppm of metal
Cloudy waterParticles finer than the sand can catch, or pH and alkalinity drifting high.
- Test pH and alkalinity, correct if out
- Can still see the bottom? Clarifier
- Cannot? Flocculant, pump off 24 h, vacuum to waste
Aqua Dazzle 100 ml / 10 000 L (max 200) · Clear Blue 200 ml / 10 000 L
Strong chlorine smell, stinging eyesChloramines — used-up chlorine. The smell means too little working chlorine, not too much.
- Test and correct pH — stinging eyes is usually pH
- Shock to break the chloramines down
Ultra-Chlor 30–50 g / 10 000 L
Doses from the Waterwell Product Catalogue 2026. The label on the container is always the instruction that counts.
Fixing it with Everblue
Everblue's own problem guide, in our words, with the products we stock.
Green or mustard algaeNot enough chlorine, wrong pH, dirty filter media — usually all three.
- Test and correct pH first
- Backwash and rinse the filter
- Shock as directed
- Algaecide, then brush the walls
Black algaePoor circulation and filtration. It roots into the plaster under a waxy cap.
- Correct pH
- Brush hard — the algaecide cannot get through the cap otherwise
- Black-algae treatment as directed
- Shock
- Fix the circulation or it returns
Everblue has no black-algae specific product. For a bad case we would put you on Waterwell Black Out.
Green that will not respond to anythingStabiliser has climbed so high the chlorine cannot keep up. Not "chlorine lock" — see below.
- Test the stabiliser. Without that number nobody can tell you your real chlorine target
- Free chlorine needs to be 7,5–10% of the stabiliser reading — at 100 ppm stabiliser that is 7,5–10 ppm
- That is more than anyone should swim in, so drain and refill part of the pool to bring stabiliser down
- Then hold the normal 1–3 ppm
- Unstabilised chlorine for a few months so it does not climb straight back
Everblue's own trade sheet calls this "overstabilisation / a.k.a. chlorine lock" and says drain 30–50%. The draining advice is sound. The term is not — Waterwell publicly debunk "chlorine lock", and they are right. Two of our suppliers disagree on the wording; they agree on what to do.
"Chlorine lock" is a myth — Waterwell, our main chemical supplier, published this and they are right. Chlorine bound to stabiliser releases again in about half a second; nothing is locked. It simply works slower as stabiliser rises, so you need more of it. Some brands' own guides still use the old term. We would rather tell you what actually happens.
Brown, rust or inky stainsIron, copper or manganese from borehole or municipal water. Sharp pH swings drop them onto the plaster.
- Metal remover — enough on its own for most stains
- Stain remover on what is left
- No shocking for 5 days after
- Set in hard? That is an acid wash — phone us, do not attempt it
Cloudy waterParticles finer than the sand can catch, or pH and alkalinity drifting high.
- Test pH and alkalinity, correct if out
- Can still see the bottom? Clarifier
- Cannot? Flocculant, pump off 24 h, vacuum to waste
Everblue's own guide asks for a liquid floc and gel blocks monthly — we stock those under Waterwell. They work the same on an Everblue pool.
Strong chlorine smell, stinging eyesChloramines — used-up chlorine. The smell means too little working chlorine, not too much.
- Test and correct pH — stinging eyes is usually pH
- Shock to break the chloramines down
Adapted from Everblue's problem-and-cause guide. Their trade sheet gives an acid method for bad staining — that is an installer's job, not a homeowner's, so we have left it out and would rather you called us.
Fixing it with BioGuard
The complete BioGuard range — 66 lines, more than any other brand here. Follow the dose on the label; BioGuard do not publish a single rate table the way Waterwell do.
Green or mustard algaeNot enough chlorine, wrong pH, dirty filter media — usually all three.
- Test and correct pH first
- Backwash and rinse the filter
- Shock as directed
- Algaecide, then brush the walls
Black algaePoor circulation and filtration. It roots into the plaster under a waxy cap.
- Correct pH
- Brush hard — the algaecide cannot get through the cap otherwise
- Black-algae treatment as directed
- Shock
- Fix the circulation or it returns
BioGuard do not make a black-algae specific product. For black algae we would put you on Waterwell Black Out — it works the same on a pool you otherwise run on BioGuard.
Green that will not respond to anythingStabiliser has climbed so high the chlorine cannot keep up. Not "chlorine lock" — see below.
- Test the stabiliser. Without that number nobody can tell you your real chlorine target
- Free chlorine needs to be 7,5–10% of the stabiliser reading — at 100 ppm stabiliser that is 7,5–10 ppm
- That is more than anyone should swim in, so drain and refill part of the pool to bring stabiliser down
- Then hold the normal 1–3 ppm
- Unstabilised chlorine for a few months so it does not climb straight back
No unstabilised BioGuard option for the 4-month prevention step. Waterwell 458 or the Everblue non-stabilised floater covers it.
"Chlorine lock" is a myth — Waterwell, our main chemical supplier, published this and they are right. Chlorine bound to stabiliser releases again in about half a second; nothing is locked. It simply works slower as stabiliser rises, so you need more of it. Some brands' own guides still use the old term. We would rather tell you what actually happens.
Brown, rust or inky stainsIron, copper or manganese from borehole or municipal water. Sharp pH swings drop them onto the plaster.
- Metal remover — enough on its own for most stains
- Stain remover on what is left
- No shocking for 5 days after
- Set in hard? That is an acid wash — phone us, do not attempt it
Cloudy waterParticles finer than the sand can catch, or pH and alkalinity drifting high.
- Test pH and alkalinity, correct if out
- Can still see the bottom? Clarifier
- Cannot? Flocculant, pump off 24 h, vacuum to waste
Strong chlorine smell, stinging eyesChloramines — used-up chlorine. The smell means too little working chlorine, not too much.
- Test and correct pH — stinging eyes is usually pH
- Shock to break the chloramines down
Dose per the label on each product. Give us BioGuard's rate table and we will put real numbers here the way we have for Waterwell.
Fixing it with Africhem
Good value across the basics. Follow the dose on the label.
Green or mustard algaeNot enough chlorine, wrong pH, dirty filter media — usually all three.
- Test and correct pH first
- Backwash and rinse the filter
- Shock as directed
- Algaecide, then brush the walls
Black algaePoor circulation and filtration. It roots into the plaster under a waxy cap.
- Correct pH
- Brush hard — the algaecide cannot get through the cap otherwise
- Black-algae treatment as directed
- Shock
- Fix the circulation or it returns
No Africhem black-algae product. Waterwell Black Out is what we would send.
Green that will not respond to anythingStabiliser has climbed so high the chlorine cannot keep up. Not "chlorine lock" — see below.
- Test the stabiliser. Without that number nobody can tell you your real chlorine target
- Free chlorine needs to be 7,5–10% of the stabiliser reading — at 100 ppm stabiliser that is 7,5–10 ppm
- That is more than anyone should swim in, so drain and refill part of the pool to bring stabiliser down
- Then hold the normal 1–3 ppm
- Unstabilised chlorine for a few months so it does not climb straight back
No unstabilised Africhem chlorine for the 4-month step — Waterwell 458 covers it.
"Chlorine lock" is a myth — Waterwell, our main chemical supplier, published this and they are right. Chlorine bound to stabiliser releases again in about half a second; nothing is locked. It simply works slower as stabiliser rises, so you need more of it. Some brands' own guides still use the old term. We would rather tell you what actually happens.
Brown, rust or inky stainsIron, copper or manganese from borehole or municipal water. Sharp pH swings drop them onto the plaster.
- Metal remover — enough on its own for most stains
- Stain remover on what is left
- No shocking for 5 days after
- Set in hard? That is an acid wash — phone us, do not attempt it
Cloudy waterParticles finer than the sand can catch, or pH and alkalinity drifting high.
- Test pH and alkalinity, correct if out
- Can still see the bottom? Clarifier
- Cannot? Flocculant, pump off 24 h, vacuum to waste
Strong chlorine smell, stinging eyesChloramines — used-up chlorine. The smell means too little working chlorine, not too much.
- Test and correct pH — stinging eyes is usually pH
- Shock to break the chloramines down
Dose per the label. Send us Africhem's rate sheet and we will add real numbers here.
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Pool Paramedic Phosphate Remedy
R149,99R179,99
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Pool Test Strips BioGuard 5 in 1 (50 Strips)
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Pool Alkalinity Increaser Waterwell Aqua Balance 1
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Pool Acid BioGuard Lo ’N Slo (Dry Acid)
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Pool Chlorine BioGuard Super Soluble 5kg Di-chlor
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Pool Water Clarifier Waterwell Super Sheen
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Puresan Pure Clear (Low Chlorine)
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Pool Algaecide/clarifier Waterwell Sta Blue 2 L
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Pool Peroxide Waterwell Sudden Blue 5 L Gauteng /4 L Cape Town (Collection Only)
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Pool Chlorine Waterwell Professional 458 4kg (Free Water Clarifier Included)
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Pool Chlorine Waterwell Professional 458 10kg (Free Water Clarifier Included)
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Pool Chlorine Waterwell Ultra-chlor 10kg
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Pool Chlorine Waterwell Ultra-chlor 25kg
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